Riding the coattails—or perhaps it would be more apt to say the gown trails—of the monumental retrospective exhibition in 2023 in Paris at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the Brooklyn Museum is about to open the striking new edition of Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses. Building upon the previous presentation’s emphasis on the way fashion meets art, this show also includes recent collections like Sympoeisis, reaffirming Iris van Herpen’s one-of-a-kind approach to sustainable, sculptural couture.
Van Herpen is known for her elaborate dresses that incorporate high-tech processes and materials, such as laser-cutting and Plexiglas, while also embracing the rhythms and patterns of biological and celestial realms. At this year’s Met Gala, for example, Olympic skier Eileen Gu arrived in a dress titled “Airu,” which was not only coated in plastic bubbles but also emitted real ones. In the “Living Algae” look from her 2025 Sympoeisis collection, van Herpen even incorporates real Pyrocystis lunula, a type of algae that forms a crescent shape and glows in the dark.
“Fascinated by the complexity of nature and the power of science, van Herpen transforms scientific concepts into visionary fashion,” says a statement. “Drawing from wide-ranging fields spanning mathematics, neuroscience, marine biology, paleontology, mycology, mineralogy, astronomy, and more, her haute couture designs seamlessly merge art, science, and technology—evoking the often unseen structures of nature, from coral reefs and branching systems of fungi to the vast patterns of planetary motion.”
Sculpting the Senses features more than 140 haute couture designs, plus the works of numerous artists like Kenny Nguyen, Wim Delvoye, Agostino Arrivabene, 目[Mé], Katsumata Chieko, Tara Donovan, and many others—several of whom have pieces in the Brooklyn Museum’s own collection. The experience is also complemented by a multi-sensory soundscape created by Dutch composer and music producer Salvador Breed.
The show opens on May 16 and continues through December 6 in Brooklyn. See more on van Herpen’s Instagram and YouTube.
