On Monday, LVMH announced that heralded designer Jonathan Anderson was stepping down from his role as creative director of Loewe. Since joining Loewe in 2013, Anderson has transformed the Spanish leather goods company into a major cultural name and a top brand at LVMH, which also owns Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, and Fendi.
The move comes after a decade in which Anderson redefined Loewe, turning it into a $2 billion brand that has become known for breaking norms around gender and form in design, as well as playing with tradition in a way his peers were not.
“What he has contributed to Loewe goes beyond creativity,” Sidney Toledano, the chief executive of the LVMH Fashion Group said of Anderson’s influence in the news release.
The shift comes as Anderson’s time at Loewe seemed to reach a peak. Last year, Loewe held a blockbuster exhibition at Shanghai Exhibition Centre that might as well have been a survey of Anderson’s time at the brand. In the fall, T: The New York Times Style Magazine named Anderson one of its “Greats” for the year. (Rumors abound that Anderson will head Dior next.)
Anderson too developed a reputation, and found commercial success, by intertwining the worlds of fashion and art to an unprecedented degree. Each Loewe season seemed to be accompanied by a new collaboration with a contemporary artist or a nod to a historical one. And Anderson founded the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize in 2016, an international award for contemporary craft artists with a €50,000 award.
Below, a list of Loewe’s top artist collaborations under Anderson:
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FW23 X Lara Favaretto
Image Credit: Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images When Loewe unveiled its Fall/Winter 2023 collection in Paris, Anderson tapped Italian artist Lara Favaretto to collaborate on the visuals for a runway show with themes around impermanence and perception. The clothes, minimalist frocks with blurry trompe-l’œil prints and other illusionary textures, were meant to reference the “ghosts” of Loewe’s history, according to show notes. Beside them, Favaretto contributed 21 fragile square confetti sculptures and, as models brushed against them, their risk of collapse mirrored the collection’s focus on what fleeting elements can look like.
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FW24 X Richard Hawkins
Image Credit: Getty Images Loewe presented its Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection at Paris Fashion Week, collaborating with LA-based painter Richard Hawkins. Anderson enlisted Hawkins to design digital collages resembling stained glass windows, with scenes of young men appearing in intimate moments. Seven of Hawkins’ paintings were displayed on the walls, as the collection drew on references to masculinity: undone garments, unbuckled belts, and partially covered torsos were meant to echo Hawkins’ depictions of queer men.
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SS24 X Lynda Benglis
Image Credit: Photo Peter White/Getty Images When Lynda Benglis, known for her poured latex and wax sculptures, unveiled six large-scale bronze ones at Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2024 in 2023, it wasn’t the only time Anderson would draw on her work. She became prominent in the ’60s, associated with other feminist artists, after gaining attention with a provocative 1974 Artforum advertisement. At the show, her metallic sculptures were set against a procession of models in floor-length capes. Other works like Black Widow (2021) and Yellow Tail (2020) hung suspended, with curator Andrew Bonacina, who worked with Benglis on the collaboration, saying that she’d intentionally preserved traces of fingerprints and others textures on the surfaces of the final bronzes. After that show, Benglis and Anderson went on to replicate the designs in a jewelry collaboration released that year.
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Fall 2025 X Josef & Anni Albers Foundation
Image Credit: Courtesy Loewe. Loewe’s Fall Winter 2025 collection, designed by Jonathan Anderson, debuted at Paris Fashion Week in collaboration with the Josef & Anni Albers Foundation. Presented across 17 rooms of the Hôtel de Maisons, the collection drew from the artist couple’s work. Five loom-woven, hand-finished coats in cotton and wool highlighted Anni’s textile techniques, while screen-printed silk skirts and accessories referenced Josef’s 1950s-1970s “Homage to the Square” series. Loewe’s Puzzle bag, a signature design that has appeared in multiple collections under Anderson, incorporated Anni’s weaving patterns. Alongside them, British artist Anthea Hamilton’s large-scale pumpkin from the Fall Winter 2022 show and oversized apple sculptures also adorned the hotel’s gardens.
